“Sustainability” is reshaping fashion and textiles, a dynamic revolution in the ascendant. Consumers are increasingly aware of how their clothing choices affect the environment and society, bringing lyocell fabric to prosper.
However, does lyocell fabric truly live up to its sustainable reputation? This post explores the details of this fabric and delves into its sustainability.
What Is Lyocell? A Fabric with Many Names
Lyocell is a semi-synthetic in the rayon family, made from regenerated cellulose derived from wood pulp. It garners raw materials from natural polymers, plants, which then go through industrial processes to transform into fibers and, ultimately, fabrics. Hailed as a “miracle fabric,” lyocell is promoted for its more sustainable manufacturing practices compared to viscose and modal rayon.
Many people recognize lyocell by the name Tencel, which is a trademarked brand of lyocell fabric exclusive to Lenzing AG. Other trademarked names include Newcell, Seacell, and Excel, although none have become as synonymous with lyocell as Tencel. It’s important to note that different companies’ trademarked lyocell often feature proprietary technologies, while “lyocell” itself is the generic term for all of them.
Although “Tencel” technically refers to a specific type of lyocell made by Lenzing, the term has become interchangeable with “lyocell.” However, within the Tencel brand, there are distinctions, such as TENCEL™ Lyocell, Modal, and Lyocell Filament, each differing from generic lyocell. Therefore, subtle differences exist among these terms.
History of Lyocell Fabric
Lyocell can be considered the third generation of rayon, a category of fabrics that utilize regenerated cellulose as raw materials.
In the early 19th century, the search for an economical substitute for silk led to the creation of viscose fiber. This fabric subsequently became popular as a solution to the shortage of natural cotton. In the 1940s, the formulation of regenerated cellulose pulp was improved to enhance viscose’s tenacity and strength when wet, eventually leading to the development of the second generation, modal. However, the production of viscose and modal remained environmentally polluting.
Driven by environmental concerns, lyocell was developed as a method of producing viscose with less pollution. Like its predecessors, lyocell is named after its production process, known as the lyocell process. Originally introduced by Courtaulds in the 1980s, lyocell is now a flagship product of Lenzing AG.
At the beginning of the new century, lyocell is in growing popularity for development in sustainability and innovation, marking a significant milestone in textile manufacturing.
What Is Lyocell Fabric Made of? Future Perspective on Its Raw Materials
Lyocell is made from cellulose extracted from various plants, including eucalyptus, beech, birch, spruce, bamboo, and more. To maintain the environmentally responsible nature of the fabric, the wood is primarily sourced from sustainably managed forests, such as eucalyptus and beech trees accredited by the US Forest Steward Council or the European Programme for the Endorsement of Forest Certification.
Lyocell is evolving towards procuring its base from fibers that would otherwise end up in landfills, including pre- or post-consumer cellulose waste, and recycled cellulosic fibers. There have been successful attempts to produce lyocell using recycled cotton fibers, showing promise for the future.
How Is Lyocell Fabric Made?
Wood Harvesting and Pulp Preparation
The production process begins with the harvesting of wood, preferably in a responsible manner. Then, hardwood is chopped and ground into pieces mechanically, which are then chemically treated to break them down into pulp.
Pulp Production
The raw cellulose pulp undergoes further cleaning and sanitization to rid it of chemical residual chemicals and impurities. It is then dried and rolled into enormous and weighty cellulose sheets. Once ready, the raw cellulose is dissolved by non-toxic NMMO(N-methyl morpholine N-oxide), the key solvent used to create the viscous solution qualified for lyocell production. This procedure requires specific pressure and heat conditions.
Fiber Formation(Wet Spinning)
The purified cellulose pulp is filtrated and fed into spinnerets, where it is reshaped into long and thin fibers. These liquid fibers then pass through a coagulation bath containing dilute amine oxide, where they solidify into staple fibers or filaments. The formed fibers are thoroughly washed and dried to remove solvent residue and impurities, getting prepared for further processing.
Yarn Spinning and Fabric Weaving
These fibers are spun into yarns, which are then woven or knitted into fabrics through various intricate methods. Depending on its intended use, the lyocell fabric gets additional dyeing and finishing processes.
Is Lyocell Sustainable?
Above all, lyocell is sustainable, and more importantly, it continues to evolve toward becoming an even more environmentally responsible product.
The most common plant used for lyocell’s manufacture is eucalyptus, a fast-growing tree that thrives on non-arable land. This plant requires minimal water and is typically grown without pesticides. In the future, lyocell is expected to primarily utilize cellulose waste and dead wood.
The production of lyocell typically involves non-toxic chemical solvents that do not trigger chemical reactions (thus producing no new chemicals) and are recycled and reused. Most leading manufacturers, including those employing the famous “closed-loop system,” achieve a recycling rate of over 99%. Besides, these systems also help minimize water waste. However, while the circular production system with close-to-zero wastage is highly effective, it is not yet universally adopted and still progressing toward wider implementation.
Consequently, lyocell produced by all the sustainable practices mentioned above, is a type of pure organic rayon, effortlessly 100% biodegradable and compostable. It remains at the forefront of textile innovation, with efforts to reduce energy consumption in its production, purporting to offer more eco-friendly benefits.
Advantages and Disadvantages of Lyocell Fabric
Lyocell fabric is celebrated for its eco-conscious attributes, but it also has several other advantages and some drawbacks.
Advantages
- Softness: Made of superfine fibers, lyocell has a supple and slippy surface that is soft to the touch.
- Sheen akin to silk: Lyocell made of lyocell filaments offers an elegant luster similar to silk.
- Breathability: Pure lyocell is very breathable for its plant-based porous cellulose structure, helping regulate temperature and wick away moisture.
- Skin-friendliness: Composed of natural materials without synthetic fibers or harmful chemicals, lyocell is gentle on the skin.
- Moisture Management: Lyocell fibers excel in moisture management. They can absorb or evaporate moisture to keep the fabric in a balanced state, making it feel soft and non-stiff when in contact with human skin.
- Hygiene: Being a breathable semi-natural fiberic, lyocell resists bacterial growth and unpleasant odors, maintaining freshness over time.
- Blending Versatility: Lyocell blends well with other fibers to produce sustainable, high-performing fabrics suitable for a wide range of products.
- Affordability: lyocell is much cheaper than costly fabrics like silk and hemp, maximizing value creation from an economic perspective.
Disadvantages
- Prone to Fluffing and Pilling: Lyocell fabrics, particularly those with higher content, can be susceptible to fluffing, pilling, and snagging.
- Delicate Care Requirements: Lyocell is sensitive to water, prone to shrinking and wrinkling when wet, and requires careful washing and maintenance.
- Difficult to Shape: In manufacturing, lyocell lacks a crisp texture and can be challenging to shape.
How Is Lyocell Fabric Used?
Prized for its aesthetic appeal and functional advantages, lyocell is a versatile fabric with a broad range of applications across various industries.
Garment and Fashion
In the fashion industry, lyocell is utilized for everything from casual wear, such as buttery-soft loungewear, to high-end garments like shirts, dresses, and tailored suits. The staple fibers are ideal for items like denim and underwear, while filament fibers, being longer and smoother, are perfect for outerwear and create a silky, shiny appearance. Lyocell is also popular in lingerie and accessories, including scarves and ties.
Home Textiles
Lyocell’s comfort and hygiene benefits extend to home textiles, where it is used in bedding products like sheets, pillowcases, and bed linens, offering a silky smooth touch that enhances sleep quality. Its absorbency and quick-drying properties also make it an excellent choice for towels, carpets, and upholstery, adding a luxurious feel to everyday items.
Other Applications
Beyond fashion and home textiles, lyocell’s high performance and eco-friendliness have extended its use in specialized areas such as conveyor belts, specialty papers, and medical clothing.
How to Wash Lyocell?
Handwashing or Machine Washing
Lyocell can withstand both handwashing and machine washing when you pay extra attention to washing. Here are some tips for your reference:
- Check the care label: First read the care label and check out if it has specific requirements.
- Use a proper detergent: Use a mild, neutral detergent that doesn’t contain bleach or harsh chemicals.
- Use cold water and a gentle approach: If washed by hand, prepare cold or lukewarm water to prevent shrinking and wrinkling. Wash it gently to prevent damage and discoloration. Wringing is avoided.
- Choose a delicate cycle: If machine-washed, adjust the washer to the gentle or delicate cycle to reduce damage.
Can You Iron Lyocell?
After washing, lyocell can be ironed or steamed. Iron the lyocell when it is slightly damp, on the delicate setting, or at the lowest heat. You can also steam lyocell to remove wrinkles. After ironing, lay the fabric flat or hang it in a shady place to air dry. The dryer is the least recommended unless your dryer has a delicate setting that does absolutely not harm the fibers.
Difference Between Lyocell and Other Fabrics
Each fabric has its strengths and weaknesses, then what are the differences between lyocell and other popular fabrics?
Lyocell VS Cotton
Lyocell and cotton are both high-quality and skin-friendly fabrics, but they differ in sustainability and performance. Lyocell is more eco-friendly than traditional cotton, which requires more land to cultivate, more water to irrigate, and the use of pesticides. Lyocell has a silky texture, and excellent moisture-wicking ability, while cotton, a natural fiber, is less smooth, breathable, and ansorbent to water.
Lyocell VS Modal
Lyocell and modal both belong to rayon fabrics, but their production has subtle differences. Lyocell is produced using non-toxic solvents and with sustainable close-looped practices whereas modal, on the other hand, utilizes a large number of chemicals hard to recycle or reuse, including caustic soda, sulfuric acid, sulfur dioxide, and zinc sulfate. Additionally, the modal has better fiber strength and turns out to be more elastic. However, lyocell’s fibers are finer, softer, and weaker, inherently lacking stretchability.
FAQs
Does Lyocell Shrink?
Yes, lyocell does shrink a little, especially when exposed to high heat or hot weather. To minimize shrinkage, it is recommended to wash lyocell fabrics in cold water and either air dry or use a low heat setting in the dryer.
Does Lyocell Shrink More Than Cotton?
No, lyocell tends to shrink less than cotton. While pure cotton shrinks significantly after washing or being exposed to high heat, the shrinkage of lyocell is consequently more controlled.
Is Lyocell Stretchy?
No, Lyocell is not naturally stretchy. But it can be slightly stretchable after knitting manufacture and blended with elastic fibers like spandex to add stretch.
Does Lyocell Wrinkle?
Yes, it does. Lyocell is prone to wrinkle when crumpled or after it undergoes a harsh wash. Proper ironing or steaming can be used to smooth out these creases.
Is Lyocell Toxic?
No, lyocell is non-toxic. The production process mainly uses a non-toxic solvent NMMO, which can be recycled and reused repeatedly. Other chemical substances like amine oxide are not harmful to the body.
Is Lyocell A Natural Fiber?
Lyocell is a semi-natural, semi-synthetic fiber. It is a plant-based material derived from the natural cellulose of wood pulp, but its production involves chemical processing.
What Are Lyocell Sheets?
Lyocell sheets are bedding made from lyocell fabric. They are known for their silky softness, breathability, and moisture-wicking properties, making them a popular choice for those seeking comfort and luxury in their bedding.
Final Thoughts
Lyocell is a fabric with both premium properties and visionary potential. Committed to our passion for textiles and responsibility for the environment, Sinoislk launches a collection of on-top lyocell fabrics and products, providing unmatched sustainability and outstanding versatility. If you are looking for a trustworthy partner, contact us and you will not go wrong.