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What is Twill – The Comprehensive Guide

The term “twill” might initially seem unfamiliar and technical, but it’s intricately woven into your everyday life. Have you ever taken a moment to examine the texture of the fabrics you wear or encounter, like denim? Upon closer observation, you’ll discern noticeable diagonal textures. This unique textured textile is identified as twill. This blog will guide you through exploring this enduring companion that consistently accompanies you.

What is Twill?

Twill refers to a fabric that possesses a distinctive textural character achieved through a unique textile technique. It is alongside plain and satin weaves, constituting the three fundamental types of textile weaves. Its defining characteristic is the presence of parallel diagonal lines or textures. Unlike other weaving techniques, the diagonal texture created by twill weaving adds visual interest and depth to the fabric.

The systematic offsetting of warp threads contributes to the durability and aesthetics of twill fabrics. The twill texture itself imparts uniqueness to designs, but when combined with printing techniques, it brings patterns to life with vivid imagery. Regardless of the textile application, twill exudes a distinctive charm.

How is Twill Made?

Twill sets itself apart from other textiles by featuring a distinction between its front and back sides. Its hallmark lies in the arrangement of warp or weft floats in a step-like manner, creating continuous diagonal lines on the fabric surface. Like other weaving techniques, twill weaving can be executed using yarns spun from natural or synthetic fibers.

In traditional weaving methods, each weft thread passes over and under the warp threads in a regular pattern, with frequent interlacing points. However, twill weaving diverges from this norm, demanding a more intricate interlacing process. 

The warp and weft threads interlace at least two yarns apart, forming a pattern of “over two, under one” or “over three, under one,” thereby producing distinctive diagonal ridges. Notably, the diagonal texture on the front and back sides appears in opposite directions.

What are the Types of Twill?

Twill comes in different materials and surface textures and can be classified into various types. We introduce some common twill variations to you:

Twill with Different Materials

  1. Cotton Twill: This soft and breathable natural fiber provides a comfortable sensation. Its high absorbency makes it an excellent choice, even in warm weather.

    Cotton Twill

  2. Silk Twill: With its luxurious and smooth texture, silk twill boasts a natural luster and elegant drape. Not only does it offer comfort, but it also enhances aesthetics, making it perfect for creating high-end accessories and fashion items.
  3. Linen Twill: Linen, known for its breathability and natural antibacterial properties, combines with twill’s unique texture to provide a relaxed and casual aesthetic, making it well-suited for crafting leisurewear.
  4. Wool Twill: Wool is highly regarded for its exceptional warmth and insulation. It keeps you cozy during cold winters. Its outstanding durability makes it a classic choice for tailored suits and coats.

    Wool Twill

  5. Polyester Twill: Made from synthetic fibers, polyester twill mimics the appearance and feel of natural fibers while offering improved wrinkle resistance and durability. You can use it to create sportswear or outdoor gear, as its excellent colorfastness maintains its beauty over a long period.
  6. Nylon Twill: It is the preferred option for outdoor garment production, renowned for its durability and ability to withstand harsh weather conditions. Its strength and water resistance provide your clothing with enhanced functionality.
  7. Blended Fiber Twill: By blending two or more fibers in twill fabric, a balance of comfort, durability, and easy care is achieved. Common blends include cotton and polyester, wool and polyester, among others.

    Blended Fiber Twill

Twill with Different Textures

  1. Herringbone Twill: Also known as chevron twill, this pattern creates a distinctive V-shaped design with diagonal lines on the fabric, reminiscent of the skeletal structure of a herringfish. The diagonal lines slant both to the right and left, alternating to form the pattern.
  2. Broken Twill: This texture deviates from conventional twill, featuring distinct breaks or variations in the diagonal direction within the fabric. Unlike regular twill, the diagonal lines do not consistently run in a single direction, giving the fabric a unique personality.
  3. Diamond Twill: During the weaving process, diagonal lines interlace to form a diamond pattern. It showcases a high degree of geometric symmetry and possesses a classic, timeless appeal.
  4. Zigzag Twill: The abrupt change in the direction of lines on the fabric creates a unique and sharply defined zigzag pattern. This jagged texture provides flexibility.
  5. Elongated Twill: This variation of traditional twill elongates the diagonal lines compared to standard twill, resulting in different visual effects and textures.

What are the Features of Twill?

Twill is renowned for its durability and strength. Its diagonal structure provides reinforcement, making the fabric highly resistant to wear and tear. Whether used for heavy-duty applications like workwear or indoor decor and outdoor equipment, you can trust that twill won’t succumb to issues like fraying or quality problems.

Compared to other fabrics, twill is less prone to wrinkling and offers excellent drape. Its organizational structure helps the fabric maintain its shape and resist creases, resulting in a neater appearance. Twill provides design versatility, allowing for the creation of various patterns and textures by adjusting factors such as the angle, density, and size of the diagonal lines. This opens up more opportunities for your creative applications. 

Additionally, different fiber types used in twill offer distinct characteristics to suit specific uses.

How is Twill Used?

Twill fabric surrounds us in various forms, each with unique thicknesses and weights that lend distinct characteristics, allowing for versatile applications.

Lightweight twill, including fabrics like silk twill, lightweight cotton twill, and others, boasts a soft, breathable nature. In the realm of clothing, it becomes shirts, pants, dresses, and everyday wear, delivering a fusion of style and comfort. It’s equally adept in accessories, creating scarves, handkerchiefs, and ties, offering versatility for fresh style combinations. Its durability and comfort also make it an excellent choice for bedding and curtain adornments.

On the other hand, heavy twill shines with exceptional durability and wear resistance, exemplified by heavyweight polyester twill and blends like heavyweight polyester-cotton twill. Its robustness finds a natural fit in workwear, catering to industrial uniforms for rugged environments. In the realm of home decor, it provides a mix of strength and texture. Outdoors, heavy twill is instrumental in crafting tents, waterproof fabrics, rugged backpacks, and protective covering.

How does Twill Impact the Environment?

The twill fabric itself does not pose a significant environmental impact, and its durability contributes to reducing excessive resource consumption to some extent. However, it’s important to consider the materials used in twill fabric production and the manufacturing processes, as they can have a substantial environmental footprint. 

Natural fibers like cotton and linen have a lower ecological impact, while the extraction and synthesis of synthetic fibers consume substantial amounts of energy and generate waste that could potentially cause pollution.

To further minimize the environmental impact, opting for organic or sustainably sourced materials is a recommended choice.

Is Twill Easy to Wash?

Yes, twill fabric’s texture makes dirt less noticeable, and its excellent durability allows for machine washing in most cases. However, some special fabrics may require additional care and maintenance. It is recommended to consult the fabric care instructions for guidance.

Is Twill Good for Summer?

The suitability of twill for summer depends on its composition and thickness. Generally, regular twill can be worn year-round. And the breathable lightweight twill is often the preferred choice for summer clothing.

Does Twill Wrinkle?

No, in general, twill’s wrinkle resistance helps maintain a tidy appearance. However, variations in composition or specific finishing techniques may result in wrinkles. This issue can be solved by ironing.


Twill can be woven from various materials, offering excellent drape, durability, wrinkle resistance, softness, and more. Its diverse textures provide ample creative support for fabric design. Whether you’re purchasing or embarking on a  project, a comprehensive grasp of twill can empower you to make informed decisions. You can also appreciate the weaving artistry woven into it.

More Resources:

What is Satin – Source: Sinosilk

What is Woven Fabric – Source: Sinosilk

Silk Twill Fabric – Source: Sinosilk

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