As a fabric supplier, we often get numerous questions about the fabric quality and suitable applications from our clients. We are committed to solving these queries since sourcing the wrong fabric can be a costly mistake. Plus, buyers face this risk more when shopping for materials online.
Fabric weight, or fabric grammage is a helpful indicator for those selecting a fabric for a specific project. It refers to how heavy a textile is and reflects the basic material properties. In this post, we’ll walk you through this important fabric clue, discussing its significance, and measuring methods. Then, we’ll provide a complete fabric weight guide for reference, including suitable projects of different weighted fabrics.
Why does Fabric Weight Matter?
Why is the weight of fabric crucial and it needs to be considered carefully? Let’s divide this question into two parts. First, the fabric weight is the final outcome of the manufacturing and finishing processes of a certain fabric content. Every fabric has its weight, like its unique identity. Second, the fabric weight shows much. It can show the basics like the yarn thickness, fabric thickness, and fabric density. This feature also displays fabric properties of drape, fit, warmth, and more. Let’s take a further look into what fabric weights affect after you’ve paid the money.
Fabric Weight Influences the Processing
You should consider the fabric weight thoroughly before starting the processing of your projects. Fabrics of different weights have their own comfortable way of manufacturing and finishing. For example, heavier-weighted fabrics are better for complex designs, bold colors, and large ink coverage than light to medium ones. For another, the former ones may need double-sided printing for a two-sided design while the latter have great ink penetration.
Fabric Weight Determines Application to Some Extent
Fabric weight affects which type of product a material is suited for. Light fabrics are ideal for clothing that requires softness and movement, like linings or summer dresses. On the other hand, medium and heavy fabrics work better for sturdier items, such as upholstery textiles and structured garments. After all, no one wants a winter coat that feels like tissue paper.
Fabric weight also helps the products serve their purposes. For example, clothes of lightweight fabrics allow easy air circulation, keeping you cool in hot or humid weather, while those of heavier fabrics provide warmth and insulation during colder months.
Fabric Weight Affects Products’ Final Effects
Fabric weight plays a big role in how the final product turns out. First, it offers a distinct appearance and touch. If a fabric had a personality, light ones would be more transparent and pliable, while heavy ones would stand their opaque ground like a seasoned bodyguard.
Second, it determines how a piece of fabric drapes or hangs. Lighter fabrics flow easily and give a soft, airy look. They are perfect for designs that require a fluid drape, like flowing gowns or casual shirts. In contrast, heavier fabrics offer structure and hold their shape well, giving coats or tailored garments a more defined, solid form.
How Is Fabric Weight Measured and Calculated?
There are standardized ways to measure fabric weight. The two most common methods are GSM and OZ.
What Is GSM and OZ in Fabric?
GSM is probably the most well-heard term when you talk with a textile shop owner. It stands for Grams per Square Meter, a widely recognized metric system unit for fabric weight. OZ, short for ounces per square yard (it’s also written as oz/yd²), is its imperial counterpart. OZ is also a very regular unit, especially common in the U.S. We often get a fabric’s OZ from its GSM. To calculate the weight of a fabric in GSM and OZ, the formula is:
Fabric weight in GSM=Weight (gram) / Length (meter) × Width (meter)
The common method of getting the precise fabric weight is to weigh samples from different areas. Grab square samples in the same size from 3-4 areas, and get their weights. After that, you can get an average weight and divide this value by the area. The result is a reliable GSM of your fabric.
How to Convert Between GSM and OZ?
In brief, the conversion between GSM and OZ is a mathematical calculation. To get an OZ value with a GSM, you need to multiply the GSM by 0.0295; to transform an OZ to a GSM, just multiply the OZ by 33.906. For more ease, you can skip personal calculations and convert the value with online convertors.
A Fabric Weight Chart
The fabric weight can be used to distinguish fabrics, mainly into three groups: lightweight, medium-weight, and heavyweight ones. The following is a fabric weight chart for reference. While these divisions are not fixed, they are widely agreed upon by fabric suppliers, manufacturers, and designers.
Light Weight Fabrics
Lightweight fabrics usually weigh under 150 GSM / 4.5 OZ (those under 100 GSM / 3 OZ are often called “ultra-light” ones). These fabrics are soft, breathable, sheer, or semi-sheer with a flowy drape. They are ideal for garment projects like tops, light shirts, and summer dresses, usually with linen. This range also has the perfect materials for wedding veils, light scarves, and decoration textiles.
Examples of this category include: Cotton voile, poplin, crepe de chine, chiffon, lace, georgette, challis, tencel jersey, chambray, batik, habotai, and most silk fabrics. 
Medium Weight Fabrics
The mid-weight fabrics are between 150 – 350 GSM / 4.5 – 10.3 OZ. They’re versatile and durable, so most of our everyday wardrobes fall into fabrics of this range. They find various applications in garments, home decor, stuffing, and outdoor fabrics with a good balance between softness and structure. Unlike light fabrics, they are better for structured and crisp items.
Common mid-weight fabrics involve most twill, drill, taffeta, satin, jersey, chambray, oxford, french terry, and wool/cashmere suiting.
Heavy Weight Fabrics
The weight of this category can be in anywhere from 350 GSM/10.3OZ above. Ultra-heavy fabrics are those beyond 400GSM /11.8 OZ. This group is thick, strong, and durable. Upholstery, outerwear, and specialty items always use heavyweight fabrics.
Examples of heavy fabrics are canvas, denim, Ponte, fleece, jacquard ( brocade and damask included), waxed fabrics, needlecord, upholstery fabrics, and most coating fabrics.
FAQs
What Is Botton Weight Fabric?
In the fashion and garment industry, bottom weight fabrics are textiles used for the bottom or base of an outfit. They’re usually medium to heavier weight fabrics, above 180 GSM, so very opaque, tough, and durable. Pants, trousers, coats, work jackets, tailored suits, and more, all of them need a proper bottom made of this type of fabric.
What Are the Weights of Upholstery Fabrics?
They are always over 300 GSM and some even beyond 400, for they require strong tensile strength to endure a lot of wear and tear. However, upholstery fabrics have a wide range, including thick cotton, raw linen, leather, specialty polyester, and more.
What Are Fabric Weights for Sewing?
In the sewing process, the weight of the fabric affects the match of patterns and final results. Here is a table showing common fabric weights and yard weights of different sewing projects.
You can get recommended fabric for your design from a fabric shop or pattern company.
How Much Does A Cotton Shirt Weigh?
This question is too large. A cotton shirt can vary in size, style, thickness, and embellishments, thus using a variety of fabrics as material. However, a medium-sized and structured shirt is often made of shirting fabrics between 130 – 170 GSM / 4.5 – 6oz. You can take a reference on this data.
Need More Expert Advice?
Sinosilk is a leading China-based manufacturer of fabrics. If you need further guidance on fabric weight or choosing the right material for your project, get in touch with us to reach out to expert help.